A meal to put Ciara into perspective

Head chef, Myles laughs when I tell him I make a version of this seafood pie at home. It’s a genuine laugh, hearty and full and I understand completely. He’s not laughing at me or my possible ineptitude with seafood pies but rather he’s chuckling at my expression which at that moment is most likely a mixture of resignation, delight and astonishment.

You see, Myles and his team at the Tavern Bar and Restaurant, outside Westport have just served up one of the best meals I have ever eaten – a big claim, I know. And it doesn’t pain me in the least to say this either: Myles’s version of the seafood pie is better than mine. Much better. In fact, it’s perfect. But more about that later.

“Any chance of the recipe?” Myles laughs again.

Nestled at the foot of Croagh Patrick, The Tavern was an obvious choice for feet-up time and a well-earned pint after conquering the mountain. Moreover, acclaimed far and wide for its gastronomic magnificence and being in receipt of a great many awards and recommendations (the Michelin Good Pubs Guide being one such champion), The Tavern was the perfect choice for a culinary diversion.

However, if you cast your mind back to Saturday past, you’ll remember that Storm Ciara was whipping the Wild Atlantic Way to within an inch of its life. She seemed very annoyed too. So, just as the intrepid adventurers set off for Co Mayo, the weather forecast on the radio started talking about an ‘orange’ wind warning and subsequently, the rain on the N17 made me wonder about the very possibility of being able to complete the journey without an outboard motor or even gills. Things were turning grave and even Galway’s European City of Culture fanfare had to be cancelled amidst Ciara health and safety concerns.

Still, fortune favours the greedy and when it became clear an ascent of the Reek wasn’t an option, the adventurers fast-forwarded to feet-up time and the well-earned pint (even though the ‘earning’ part was merely the drive).

As it turns out, such is Myles’s prowess when it comes to seafood and such is The Tavern’s completeness when it comes to being a quality establishment, lunch alone was worth the drive – all six hours, there and back. Don’t worry: Me and Herself didn’t drive down and up on the same day. We stayed over. We’re not completely mental.

With a fairly extensive menu, there was however, only one section we were going to be interested in: Seafood. I mean, there was zero chance of me starting with chicken wings or garlic mushrooms when the sea is – literally – spitting distance from The Tavern’s doorstep. Therefore, after much deliberation (during the ordering and waiting and consumption of half a pint of Guinness), we eventually decided against the oysters and the mussels and instead opted for the scallops. Pan seared and on a bed of pea and mint purée, the scallops sat astride rounds of Kelly’s black pudding, with a scattering of bacon crumb and a side of citrus cream. The dish was listed as one of the house specials for the day although the word ‘special’ doesn’t do it justice. Perfectly conceived of, perfectly executed and tasting perfect, these scallops sang in exultation. It was surf and turf but another level; the earthy black pudding and the salty bacon perfectly complimenting the sweet shellfish.

Personally, I don’t consider myself a food snob. I derive a massive amount of satisfaction from homely fare like beans on toast and I like a chip butty as much as the next man (with red sauce, obvs) but when I’m out for a meal, there is always the tendency for thinking I could do this or that or such and such better at home. However The Tavern’s special of seared scallops was peerless. This was a dish that, although classic in origin, had been honed to celestial proportions. It helps, granted, that the various components (we’re looking at you, Mr Scallop) are of the highest quality. And yet, if I thought that the scallops were going to be the highlight of the day at The Tavern, I had other things coming. In this case ‘other things’ was that aforementioned seafood pie au gratin (cod, salmon, clams and mussels in white wine and dill cream, creamed potatoes, melted cheddar and side salad).

Upon the very first tentative tasting of the piped creamed potatoes covering the pie, it shames me to say, I took Our Lord’s name in vain, such was my astonishment. With the barest crisp of a skin thanks to the oven or the grill, the spuds were perfectly seasoned and of the perfect consistency. Only then, did I delve into the pie’s interior where les fruits de mer were waiting in all their magnificence.
Sweet clams, meaty cod, succulent mussels – it was only after speaking to Myles that I learned the seafood was initially cooked in garlic and butter to accentuate their attributes.

Honestly and without jinxing myself for future gluttony, this seafood pie was the BEST main that I have eaten in a restaurant in living memory. And that’s saying something, given my distinctly rotund physique.

You know the point when you’re eating a spectacular meal and even though you’re full, you can’t stop eating because the pleasure receptors in your brain are firing and firing and firing? That was me on Saturday past at The Tavern.

The dill (a dangerous herb in my book) offered merely a subtle note and yet was a super bedfellow for les fruits in their ablutions of creamy decadence. I couldn’t stop until the plate was cleaned. And you know, I don’t think I’m over it yet. And that’s the truth.

For his part, Myles only appeared at our table in The Tavern just as we were reluctantly preparing to leave. After a gentle enquiry as to how our meals went down, both myself and Herself were only too pleased to wax expansive on the merits of his skills, exquisite seafood and an ambience of an eatery only bettered by its wares – not to mention its location.
I shook his hand as we proffered our thanks for a thoroughly superb meal and shouldering our coats, we goodbye-ed and headed back out into Ciara, who by that stage was deep into the storm equivalent of self-flagellation.
Beaming with pleasure and sated with a distinct inner peace, I could only conclude this was one of the best eating out experiences of my entire life. This was confirmed too when Herself, similarly beaming and sated goes, “You just couldn’t fault it.”

Dear reader, The Tavern alone is worth the trip. And do me a favour if and when you’re there…
Try Myles again for the seafood pie recipe!