Strabane man’s life-changing journey to Mount Everest base camp

STRABANE man and avid hillwalker Neil McGarrigle has ticked a major item off his bucket list – reaching the base camp of the world’s highest mountain, Mount Everest.

Now safely back home and reflecting on the experience, Neil says he’s already planning his next challenge, after completing what he describes as a life-changing journey.

Neil, joined by close friend Kieran McElwee and Kieran’s son Danny, set off three weeks ago on the gruelling 80-mile round trip from the mountain village of Lukla, Nepal. The trio were determined to tackle the rugged Himalayan terrain and reach Everest’s famed base camp, but the trek took an unexpected turn when Kieran and Danny had to turn back due to illness, leaving Neil to continue the journey alone.

Already no stranger to hillwalking around Tyrone and Donegal, Neil explained his motivation to take on Everest Base Camp.

“To be honest, it’s always been on my bucket list to do,” he said. “Previously I had gone to Kilimanjaro in 2019 and developed the bug for it. I had another trip to Russia planned afterwards but Covid and the war soon put paid to that. Kieran, I and another friend Chris McGaughey decided about a year ago that we would try to do Everest base camp but Chris was forced to drop out due to work commitments.

“We began planning the trip about a year ago, paying in for it and getting into good condition for the trek to make sure we could complete it.”

After flying into Kathmandu, the trio met their guide, Prakash, and were flown by helicopter to Lukla – already 3,000 metres above sea level – to begin the ascent. The adventure started in Phakding, but just two days in, Neil’s companions were forced to abandon the trek. Undeterred, Neil pressed on with his guides, averaging 10 to 12 kilometres a day for the next week through increasingly demanding conditions.

“Physically, you had to be ready for the journey, make no mistake about that,” Neil said. “The first day was easy enough despite the wet weather but with each passing one, things got tougher; there were days when it felt like the path would never end. Despite wanting to get there, the guides advised me to take my time and take in lots of fluids; at one point I was drinking five litres of water a day.”

Each night brought rest in rustic tea houses scattered along the trail, shared with fellow trekkers on the same mission. Neil was captivated by both the natural beauty and the local hospitality.

“The journey itself was amazing and Nepal is beautiful with stunning views of the Himalayas. None of the native population was too concerned about all these foreigners coming through their towns and villages and everyone was extremely friendly, having been used to it as they were on the main trail towards Everest.”

One particular moment tested his nerve: The Hillary Bridge, one of Nepal’s highest and most daunting suspension bridges.

“That was a bit of a scary moment for sure but you just get on with it. Getting to base camp was the goal so I didn’t think about the height too much.”

On day nine, Neil finally reached Everest South Base Camp, situated at a breath-taking 5,364 metres above sea level.

“It was breath-taking,” he recalled. “A large expanse surrounded by soaring jagged peaks, the whole place was stunning. On the ground, base camp was like a large tented city with rows upon rows of tents filled with people who were acclimatising themselves before making the climb up Everest. It actually reminded me of the recent film ‘Everest’ which I think captured the whole place very well.

“The place was packed with people all vying to get a spot to pitch their tents and, although they were friendly enough to someone like me who was only ‘visiting’ I got a sense of a pretty intense rivalry between all the different companies, all of whom wanted to get their people to the summit first.”

Despite the immense effort to get there, Neil only stayed at base camp for an hour – something he now admits was a misstep.

“That was a mistake on my part. The package we had booked didn’t allow for staying at base camp and, in hindsight, I probably should have done that so I could soak up the atmosphere and scenery a lot more. The altitude got to me a little, that’s to be expected. But I still loved every minute.”

After a brief rest at nearby Gorakshep, Neil and his Sherpas began the return journey to Lukla. Beyond the personal triumph, Neil’s trek was also a charitable mission, raising £450 for Marie Curie and Foyle Search and Rescue.

Now safely back in Strabane – and just about recovered – Neil is already eyeing up his next mountain challenge.

“I’d do it again for sure,” he said. “Maybe back to Everest and stay at base camp a little longer or possibly Annapurna in Nepal. Either way I have the taste for it now so why not, while I’m still able.”

The journey itself was amazing and Nepal is beautiful with stunning views of the Himalayas.